31 March 2025

Ye Daily Blog

OK, these posts are coming fast and furious now that we're actually doing interesting things.  The chores are suffering though, so we may have to attend to them for the next few days.  

Saturday 3/29 was a beautiful day, so after taking care of some things in the morning we went on a little drive to explore a mountain across the valley from us, this one right here -->

Pat plotted a nice scenic loop route through villages and countryside (with some very narrow roads).  We tried to find a way to the top of the mountain too but there just aren't any roads up there.  On a road leading to a church there were at least a dozen huge granite crosses like you see below, spaced about 20 m (yards) apart from each other.

The view, prior to...

Crosses leading up to...

 ... A church

Sunday 3/31 was another beautiful sunny day and we went to the city of Viana do Castelo with our friends Maayan and Dan.  Viana do Castelo is the largest city in the northwest corner of Portugal, about a half hour drive southwest from here, located where the Lima river meets the Atlantic Ocean.  It's a beautiful historic port city which we have visited the outskirts of briefly several times, but we have never seen the historic part like we did on Sunday.

Pat and Maayan visited a costume museum, which had dozens of authentic Portuguese folk costumes mostly dating from the 19th century.  Gerrit tagged along briefly, got bored, and left to find Dan who said he couldn't stand museums (a medical condition, he claims) for a cup of coffee at a pleasant portside café.  Pat and Maayan report that the museum was very interesting, with beautifully-made colorful costumes for celebrations and for everyday wear.  The museum used to be a bank, so there is a vault in the basement which the museum uses to store its golden jewelry!  Golden jewelry was an important part of formal festival costumes.

Maayan and Dan were more familiar with Viana do Castelo than we were, and they led us on a nice stroll through the streets and alleys nearby, ending up at a nice waterfront restaurant for lunch.  We split a delicious platter of robalo grelhado (grilled sea bass), Maayan had vegetarian pasta, and Dan had camarões (prawns).  Again we simply dove in without doing the Instagram thing, so you'll have to use your imagination to visualize what lunch looked like.  We are blogueiros deficientes ("lame bloggers" if you can believe the translator).

After lunch we passed a monument to the Carnation Revolution of April 25 1974 with its broken chain symbolizing liberation.  Liberty Day (April 25) is a very significant day for the Portuguese.  You see streets and monuments everywhere dedicated to it.

 

 

The final treat in Viana do Castelo was Bolas de Berlim, hole-less doughnuts filled with egg yolk custard and sprinkled with sugar.  The finest pastelaria (pastry shop) for these is Manuel Natário.  There was a line half a block long when we got there, waiting for the next fresh batch, but those in the know seat themselves in the shop and order coffee.  They are served the fresh Bolas first, which are indeed heavenly!  As we left the shop Gerrit was tempted to loudly praise them just to make those poor suckers in line feel bad. 

Back home, after recovering from acute sugar poisoning, we had a nice moderate late dinner of wine, cheese, nuts, and olives following our day of excess.

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)

28 March 2025

Interesting Stuff

Well here we are, days after saying our blog posts would taper off, with another blog post.  We can't help it when something interesting happens!  Maybe we should say the posts may be "sporadic".

Gerrit is getting more comfortable with terror, confusion, and humiliation.  He is approaching salespeople and just plowing right into Portuguese rather than timidly saying in Portuguese "do you speak English?".  Often they stick with Portuguese, Gerrit gets about 1/4 of the conversation, and somehow the transaction is completed.  Meanwhile he has forced his brain to think of how to express things in Portuguese on the fly, and he's desperately picking out meaning from what they say.  Sometimes the clerk switches to English unbidden (is it that obvious?) while Gerrit tries to persist with Portuguese.  

Wednesday 3/26 we were buying a battery-powered weed-whacker and Gerrit screwed up his courage and spoke through the sweat.  After a while, the clerk said in broken English that his Portuguese was very good (!!), to which Gerrit laughed and replied "não verdade!" ("not true!") but he felt pretty proud.  He got questions answered and the deal done with a fair amount of pidgin in both languages, and was beaming as we left.  Pat is catching on too, understanding and speaking more, reading signs and ads.  It is really exciting for both of us.

The key is to let yourself make mistakes.  It's very simple: that's the way we learn, period.  Little kids don't mind making mistakes, but adults are terrified of it.  We get hot, we blush, we sweat, we stammer.  We have to let ourselves lighten up, laugh at the mistakes and learn from them (which is easier said than done).  A fellow student in one of our online classes was laughing about how he was telling someone in Portuguese that "he hurt his rabbit".  He had mixed up "coelho" (rabbit) with "joelho" (knee), and everybody had a good laugh.  What's wrong with that?  Just like when the Portuguese real estate agent speaking broken English to us some time ago mixed up "kitchen" and "chicken".  Generally, anyone loves it when they hear someone try to speak their language, even if it doesn't come out as intended.  So just get in there and blunder your way through!  And be slooow and simple with English beginners too.

In the evening of Wednesday 3/26 we went to one of our expat gatherings, the one in the cool craft beer tavern in historic Ponte de Lima.  That was also the night of a local festival, Serrada da Velha or "the burning of the old woman".  Never fear, no old women were harmed, but a huge bonfire of paper old women was lit.  There was a parade and then kids and adults threw their homemade old woman effigies gleefully on the fire.  The festival has pagan origins (maybe in witch hunts actually), and now symbolizes the destruction of the old to make way for the new.  Fitting for the start of spring!  It is also a fun break in the middle of austere Lent, and the Portuguese just love festivals.  There were several actors dressed as crotchety old women prior to the bonfire, hectoring the crowd and throwing water on them.  It was great fun!


Now that our passive solar water heater is working, it's amazing to watch it.  Wednesday 3/26 was clear and a moderate temperature (15 C, 59 F), and the solar panels were 70 C (158 F) by noon!  The hot water tank was a toasty 65 C (149 F) without any electric heating at all, and still over 60 the following morning for nice hot showers.  Gerrit is having fun trooping up and down the stairs to keep an eye on it.  For now we have the electricity to the hot water tank turned off completely.  We're also toying with the idea of putting photovoltaic solar panels on the roof to provide most of the electricity in the home,  which would feed into the grid when they're producing more than we need.  The power companies pay you over here for doing that, like in the US.  We'll leave a box by the front gate for the power company to drop the cash in.

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)

25 March 2025

Days in the Lives

Dear reader, our posts here are going to become fewer and farther between.  This is because we're not doing much which is blogworthy!  Who wants to read about shopping, yard maintenance, and household repairs?  Bleah.  We will continue to take notes when something interesting happens and make a post when we have enough verbiage, but don't worry if they're no so frequent.  Rest assured that we remain happy as clams, asking each other every few days "how did we get so lucky?"

On Wednesday March 12 Pat put together the rowing machine and Gerrit installed the window film in the bathroom.  Both projects went well, and now we can shower off after a workout without any neighbors with telescopes peering in.  In the evening we went to a new (to us) English-speaking expat get-together, in a cool craft-beer bar right in the lovely heart of historic Ponte de Lima.  Our friends Maayan and Dan were there, and we met some new and interesting people too.

A couple weeks ago Pat found a walnut counter top plank for sale in Porto, and a few days ago we bought some suitable legs for it at a hardware store.  Thursday 3/13 Gerrit screwed the legs to the plank (which turned out to be a bigger job than it sounds like) and now we have a new coffee table.

On Friday 3/14 our Portuguese housekeeper Inês was here doing her normal fabulous job.  We also had the nicest, longest conversation yet; we're all becoming more comfortable with our first-grader speech in the other's language.  We asked her some specific things, and she asked us if we would like some of the oranges from her big tree.  The next morning she showed up with a huge bag of oranges!  What a sweetheart.  Gerrit played her some of the text-to-speech Portuguese audio he is using to learn vocabulary (and to create the audio in the blog here), and she agreed that it sounded fine.  We love the way she occasionally rolls her r's like the Spanish.  It's apparently a north Portugal accent.

This second day Inês was here to do some weeding and we invited her for lunch.  It was more stressful this time, we hardly understood a word.  She is pretty high-energy, talks quickly, and doesn't slow down much for us.  There were a few moments of clarity, but we were both pretty exhausted afterward.  Just when you think you're getting it...

Sunday 3/16 our handyman came by and weed-whacked the lower acreage, the possible future home of the bungalow.  Brambles and gorse take over down there, and it needs a regular haircut.  About 45 minutes before he arrived, Gerrit discovered we had no gas or two-stroke oil for the weed-whacker.  He ran off to a nearby gas station and got some, after asking haltingly about the two-stroke oil.  He and the gas station attendant, an older guy, had an animated discussion, and with some gestures and simple words they managed to communicate.  They both smiled broadly and Gerrit zipped back home in time for the handyman.  After the weeds were whacked we took a drive northeast of here again, through the beautiful countryside in the clear afternoon sunshine.

We discovered an excellent wine called Periquita, from the Setúbal peninsula just south of Lisbon.  It has dignified tasting notes in English: "...renowned for being the first red wine bottled in Portugal... celebrates the Portuguese way of life... relaxed, warm, fruity and with a spicy nose... what Portugal is all about" bla bla bla, but we wondered what "periquita" meant so we asked the Reverso translator.  It's a vulgar slang term for female genitalia!  WHAT??  You can't put that on a wine label!!  But there it was.  A little more research revealed that it also means "parakeet", but sources seem to all acknowledge its slang meaning too.  Holy cow.  Gerrit will have to be careful not to ask a female wine shop clerk for "some of her Periquita".  He might get a wine bottle cracked over his head.  Unless periquita truly is "what Portugal is all about", like the label says.

On Wednesday 3/19 some representatives from a prefab log cabin supplier visited to look at our possible bungalow site.  They made some measurements and we discussed some options, but we're not sure we want to go with them.  In fact, we're thinking now we might enhance the living quarters already off the garage to make a nice guest room instead of adding a bungalow.  The garage needs a normal human door besides the existing car door anyway, so we could take care of that at the same time.

This online shopping stuff really takes it out of you.  We've been looking for linens and blankets, electric brush cutters and crampons (for standing on the steep hill while working), and, oh my gosh, where did the day go?

Sunday 3/23 the weather had been quite stormy for several days, including a brief power failure, but it began to clear.  We took a drive to nearby Serra da Arga, the highest region in the area at 730 m (2400 ft) and home to a windfarm along with some villages on the way.  Along the road we saw a fence, stair railing, and house all built from rocks of random sizes fit cleverly together.  On the way home we had a beautiful view of Ponte de Lima and its surrounding villages.

 

 

On Tuesday 3/25 a technician came out to look at our solar water pre-heater system and found it wasn't working at all!  It required a bit of TLC, draining and re-pressurizing the glycol heat-exchange fluid, and now it's great to see the 285 l (75 gal) tank heating up by 10 C (18 F) after most of a mostly sunny day on solar only.  This should certainly help keep the electric bills down.

And here is a serene image of morning fog over Ponte de Lima, seen from our front room.

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)

12 March 2025

Shopping Till We're Dropping

Now that the festivities of the past week or so have died down, we can get back to normal.  As normal as the weather allows anyway.  It has gotten very moody: stormy and gloomy one minute and fair the next.  Pat says it reminds her of Gerrit.

One confusing aspect of learning a language is "false cognates" (or "false friends" as they're called in Portuguese), words that look or sound similar between languages but their meanings aren't.  For example, if you went into a Portuguese pharmacy and saw remedies for "constipação", what would you think they were for?  Well, you'd be wrong.  "Constipação" means the common cold.  Or you come to doors in a building.  You would push on the one marked "puxe" and pull on the one marked "empurre", right?  Wrong.  "Puxe" means "pull" and "empurre" means "push".  You can always tell the English speakers by the way they yank in frustration at the doors.  Or if you wanted to compliment someone on their exquisite taste you might be tempted to say "esquisito", but you'd get a puzzled look.  "Esquisito" means "strange", not "exquisite".  "Recipiente"?  Not a recipient, but a container.  "Pasta"?  Not spaghetti, but a folder or briefcase.  "Gripe"?  Not a complaint, but the flu.

Saturday March 8 we heard from the handrail metal fabricator and got engineering drawings.  All the details of the project look great, and he expects to be able to install at least the main stairway railing the week of the 24th.  We're looking forward to that.

We've been shopping for a few replacement items too.  The wooden handle to Gerrit's hatchet broke off so he replaced it with a nice plastic one which required a little customization  Then the blinds in the master bath pulled completely out of the ceiling, so Pat found a nice stained-glass-looking translucent window applique to function as a privacy screen instead.  This is the kind of thing homeowners do.

On Sunday we did some cleaning and housework, then garbage dumping and grocery shopping.  That sure sounds boring.  We're going to have to self-censor and only post once a month if this keeps up.  Or scrape photos from the internet and claim we went there.  Oh wait, there was one exciting development that day: we ordered a rowing machine.  We liked the one in the gym at the trailer park we were moored at back in 2022, for a good full-body workout.  We hope it will help ward off the decrepitude for a few more years at least.

Tuesday the weather had shaped up and we went on a shopping spree in Guimarães, one of our favorite little nearby cites.  We picked up our rowing machine, got the legs for our coffee-table-to-be plus a bunch more hardware, visited a 105-year old hat shop in the old part of town, had a delightful little lunch nearby, tracked down a ceramic Barcelos Rooster which Pat had fallen in love with on an earlier visit, and finally got some algae cleaner to try on the exterior of the house.  After unloading all that late in the afternoon we were ready for a beer on the balcony in the beautiful setting sun and breeze.

New hats 

 Nice lunch

Our lunch deserves a bit of elaboration.  The little cheese shop advertised what looked like a nice lunch of baguette sandwiches.  We asked for that and a couple beers, and the friendly proprietress said "just five minutes, I need to buy the bread".  Off she ran after serving us our excellent Spanish beer at an outside table.  She was soon back, and fixed us some delicious sandwiches of very fresh bread, ham, and some of the creamy soft shop cheese.  After enjoying our lunch we picked up a quarter kilo of the delicious cheese plus two of those Spanish beers to go, and left happy.

At right is a picture of Bart the new Barcelos Rooster.  He is a handsome devil and his hand-painted craftsmanship is superb.

Wednesday we did some grocery shopping, and on the way home the country road was blocked by a tractor from a local farm which was stuck across it.  After a minute a woman jumped out of her car and went up to help.  She was joined by another, and they all got the tractor free.  It was another example of the helpfulness we see here all the time, but there seemed to be a darker side too.  The old farmer and his wife who needed the help seemed frail and a little ashamed.  Growing old even in comfort and security is hard, but having to stay working the farm your whole life is really punishing.  And that's the way a lot of the world has to do it.

Gerrit finally finished mounting his homemade clock shelf, and boy is it ugly.  Perhaps a coat of wall-colored paint will help.  Help it blend into obscurity that is.

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)

06 March 2025

Viva o Carnaval!

Last Sunday were the big parades for the Ponte de Lima birthday which we featured in our last post, then on Monday we took care of some domestic duties like Gerrit chipping pruned branches and splitting firewood, and Pat making fresh lemon curd.  The place looks nice and tidy now with the pruning almost done, and holy cow that lemon curd is good!

Then Tuesday was the big Carnival parade in the nearby town of Arcos de Valdevez, the biggest parade in northern Portugal, with participants from Portugal and Spain too.  It is just a coincidence that the Ponte de Lima 900th anniversary landed right on top of of the pre-Lent Carnival this year, so we've had plenty of entertainment the past few days!  Carnival is celebrated all over the world as Mardi Gras, Carnival, and so forth, and is a huge indulgent party before the austerity of forty days of Lent.  There is a big Brazilian influence in Portugal (or is the the other way around?) and Brazilian Carnival is world famous, so we expected big things.

Parking for the parade was pretty crowded, but we found a tiny spot in which to wedge Pérola (our Honda Jazz sub-mini) and walked a couple blocks to the parade route.  On the way to the parade route we saw this cool mural.  It is built from junkyard parts and spray paint!  We've seen three examples of this kind of art here in Portugal -- it's a thing.  Our intrepid navigator Pat led us straight to the perfect observation point, on an arch right next to the route ("dumb luck" she says).  We were midway along the route and the parade moves very slowly, so it didn't reach us until almost an hour after the official starting time.  We had fun people-watching and enjoying the costumes in the meantime.

The parade was spectacular!  The costumes and floats were astounding, elaborate and colorful, and they had themes from carnivorous plants to perfume bottles to the Age of Discovery to underseas.  And some that were just plain weird.  The music was pop and Latin, lots of fun, and the dance moves were impressive and skilled (even the kids).  After almost two hours the parade wound down and we limped back to the car, tired of standing but happy.  And ready for a nice austere Lent.  Us and the weather: it went from sunny and fair through all the celebrations to foggy and rainy.

The big news on Wednesday was that we finally got a plumber to come take a look at our clattering water pump.  He recharged the pressure tank and all is well (er, borehole actually).  Whew!  We had been experiencing worse and worse water hammering and were unable to get a plumber in here for one reason or another for over a month, so it is a great relief to have it all quiet and operating normally.  Makes us want to take nice long showers.

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)

05 March 2025

Happy Birthday, Ponte de Lima!

March 5 2025 was the 900th birthday of the town of Ponte de Lima.  Nine hundred years!  Something not to be missed.  Today was the first day of celebration, consisting of several drum bands in the morning and then a parade and dancing with several villages around Ponte de Lima represented.

A couple nights prior to the birthday party we took this shot of the Ponte de Lima medieval bridge, all dressed up for the occasion.

The drum bands solved the riddle of the drumming we heard a week or so ago from our house: it was Ponte de Lima birthday party practice!  The rhythms and sounds we heard at the celebration party were exactly the same as we heard from home some time ago.

The video here of the drum bands below is pretty good, but the audio is overloaded.  In person the effect was awesome, thunderous, incredible.  Our chests were vibrating, the sound was like the orc war drums in Lord of the Rings, it was very emotional and thrilling.  Car alarms all up and down the street were going off, but it was hardly audible over the thunder.  Along with the drums were accordions and Celtic pipes too.

The drum bands marched through the old town of Ponte de Lima, then across the medieval bridge, and came back a few minutes later.

After the drums in the late morning we bumped into some friends from our Friday expat get-together.  It was great to see some familiar faces and share experiences of the day.  We chatted with Christoph from Switzerland and then had lunch and a great conversation with Maayan and Dan from Israel.

About 3 PM the parade of folk groups from several villages around Ponte de Lima began.  The authentic costumes were wonderful, and the music and rhythm of the castanet-like hand clappers was amazing and unique.  Listen for their chatter in the video below.  Many little children participated, absorbing their culture and history from an early age.  They were darling in their little folk outfits!  We watched some folk dancing too.  Everyone sang along and knew the music and dances by heart, even the little ones.  We felt very much like outsiders, but accepted, and we felt honored to be intimate spectators.

 
Drum bands

Folk culture

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)