27 February 2025

Sedentary Life

Well, this is getting really sedentary.  Feel free to unsubscribe if you were hoping for hang gliding and motocross.  

On Monday Feb. 17 Gerrit assembled the wood chipper, and on Tuesday and Wednesday he gave it a workout.  He chipped up a pile of branches which had resulted from some extensive pruning.  The chipper is electric, nice and quiet, chews up pruned branches just fine, and reduces their volume considerably.  The result is a finely-chopped mash which can be spread in an unused section of the lot or composted.  Everyone burns their yard waste in Portugal, but we're going to buck the trend.  Burning is too smoky.

We went for a drive to explore some of the surrounding area not far from home.  Here are a couple beautiful scenes.

Castle on a hill surrounded by vineyards 

Nearby village

Pat has been trying to order a washing machine and a wine cooler.  First there was no confirmation of the order or whether it was going to be delivered.  She contacted Rita, our smart and fully bi-cultural all-purpose Portuguese fixer, who found that the wine cooler was out of stock for a month so they were holding the whole order.  Without telling us.  What?  So Pat tried to cancel the cooler order, specifically saying that, and got the question back whether she wanted to cancel the entire order.  Huh?  Why?  When Pat explained all this to Rita, Rita said well, that's just the Portuguese way.  Pat said she was trying not to go there, to that stereotype, and Rita responded "hope is the last to go".  Hah!  That ironic pessimism is kind of a Portuguese stereotype too.

Pat ordered the cooler from another store.

On Thursday we thought we would visit a swimming pool supply place not far from here.  We need a new pool cover, plus we really don't know what we're doing and we're hoping to get some general maintenance advice.  The website is bilingual and we were hoping to speak to someone in English.  When we got there we found a woman who seemed kind of sad and only spoke Portuguese, and with some difficulty we gathered that the owner was not at work that day.  Or something like that.  So we bade her farewell and made a mental note to call first next time.

Friday was another delivery day: a washing machine and a curling iron.  Gerrit also built a little shelf for the bedroom alarm clock out of materials he'd been accumulating.  Later we went to the regular Friday expat gathering at the Margen bar and met some more interesting people with fascinating stories.  We got a possible connection for a plumber too.

Sunday we made the 1 hour drive back to Porto for some errands and shopping.  When we moved here to Ponte de Lima we got leftover boxes and packing material from some fellow expats who had recently moved, and Sunday we took them to the next users, a nice couple from Texas.  We hope the boxes get passed along like this as long as they hold up.  Also, Pat had found a gorgeous thick walnut counter top for sale by another expat which we picked up.  It will make a beautiful coffee table.  And last but not least we paid another visit to the El Corte Inglés department store for lunch, a chef's knife, and some of their specialty grocery stuff.

Monday was a reminder of Seattle: steady, non-stop rain all day long.  We stayed totally at home, cleaning and putting things away.  Online shopping too, for bungalows and knife blocks.  Did we mention we're thinking of putting a bungalow in the lower part of the property?

Tuesday was a beautiful day, after all that rain the day before, so we spent some time in the morning doing some pruning and branch chipping.  About noon the wine cooler arrived and we set it up.  Most of the year it won't be doing much, but during the hot summer months coming up it will keep the wine from getting "cooked".  Yes, that's the term for it, and it ruins the wine.  Pat also harvested a couple dozen lemons, started a batch of limoncello with the zest, and froze the juice in ice cube trays for lemonade or cooking.  Here is the lemon tree before the harvest, but there are plenty of lemons left.  Next up: lemon curd!

Wednesday was another nice day, but we had both slept poorly the night before.  A large neighbor dog sounded like he was ticked off at some predators which were after his goats between about 3:00 and 4:30 AM, barking incessantly.  Ah, country life.  We went grocery shopping in the morning (also picking up a computer printer and a cheap little single-shot espresso machine), and in the afternoon we measured and photographed the potential bungalow area.

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)

17 February 2025

Sightseeing

Put on your tourist hats folks: lots of pictures in this post.  Pat found a fireplace wood basket she liked online, available at a hardware store in Barcelos, about 45 minutes from here.  We headed down there on Saturday Feb. 15, and picked it up along with a load of other stuff.

Barcelos is famous for the origin of the Rooster of Barcelos, the symbol of Portugal.  You see gigantic roosters like this tabletop version all over town, and similar roosters all over Portugal.  The story behind it is highly dubious, involving a roasted rooster jumping up from the dinner table and crowing.  We recommend you not spread this around.

On the way back home we took the back roads and saw an intriguing-looking church structure on a hill in the town of Balugães.  We took a left, headed up the hill, and found the Santuário Nossa Senhora da Aparecida, said to be the site of the first vision of the Virgin Mary in Portugal.  It was a beautiful and secluded church, quiet, no one around, and stunningly ornate inside.  The views from the hillside were beautiful too.

 
Approaching the Santuário

The main Santuário church

Inside the main church

Inside the smaller Santuário chapel

Valley view from the Santuário

The other side of the valley

A little further on we came across this miniature stone fairy land built along the driveway to someone's house.  It looks like a tiny reproduction of a medieval town.  And is that the Ponte de Lima medieval bridge in there?

Sunday morning for breakfast we had scrambled eggs, buttered toast with lemon curd made by the former owners of Casa da Rocha from our own lemons, and slices of our own fresh oranges.  It doesn't get much better than that!

That afternoon was clear and bright, and we took a little ramble around the area.  There is a hill you can see from our balcony which looks like it would be a nice viewpoint if you could get up there, so we went exploring and found our way to the top.  There is a little chapel up there called Capela de Santo Ovídio, which is the gloomiest looking chapel ever (looks more like a cell), plus a mess of antennas, but the views are indeed spectacular.

Gloomiest chapel ever, complete with cell window

The town of Ponte de Lima and its medieval bridge from the chapel viewpoint

Pretty nice views though

We continued eastward up the Lima river for a few kilometers, following the river mostly on small roads through tiny villages and farms.  Then we headed north and into the hills, following road signs to places that looked interesting like Paço da Glória.  This is an 18th century mansion, remote in the countryside, which has been restored as a retreat.  We followed winding little roads up into the hills to find it.  You can read more about it at pacodagloria.com.

Paço da Glória

Paço da Glória

 

Paço da Glória

Up and over the mountain we continued, following gorgeous little roads through the countryside to return home.  A beautiful day of sightseeing, and all within a few kilometers of home!

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)

14 February 2025

Home Building

As many (all?) of you know, Sunday Feb 9 was Super Bowl Sunday in the US.  Well, one of Pat's birding sites moved the "b" and created Superb Owl Sunday with a page dedicated to all things owl.  That's what Gerrit is going to celebrate on the second Sunday of February from now on.  

On Monday we had a very successful shopping safari.  Much of it was exploratory, just stopping at places to see what they had.  We picked up a load of gardening tools and groceries though, plus some address numbers for the coming streetside mailbox from one of the coolest hardware stores ever.  The hardware store stop had to be quick, but we vowed to return and give it a close inspection.

On Tuesday the tech for the water heater tank and the HVAC arrived, and we discovered that he had installed the original water heater tank and solar heater here back in 2014!  He works for Tecnilima, a local Ponte de Lima appliance and technical shop, and has been here for years.  We love making local connections like this.  He spoke English quite well, so Gerrit's earlier laborious translation of the problem into Portuguese was not necessary.

The tech took apart some of the tank shell, found and fixed the problem, and all was well.  The tank is quieter now and runs much more efficiently.  He also saw that the solar water heating panels were not running at the proper pressure, so he will return to fix that and to clean and maintain the panels.  As for the HVAC unit, it was simply not wired up!  It was probably never connected when the house was first built (it looked brand new inside), and now it works fine.  Total technician house-call time, with sophisticated tools and expertise: 1 hour.  Total charge: €60 ($62).

We ran across a Portuguese to English phrasebook known as "English as She Is Spoke", written in the 19th century by a Portuguese fellow who clearly didn't speak English.  Here are some of his English "familiar phrases":

  • Have you say that?
  • At what purpose have say so?
  • Put your confidence at my.
  • At what o'clock dine him?
  • These apricots and these peaches make me and to come water in mouth.

And here are a few English "Idiotisms and Proverbs":

  • The necessity don't know the low.
  • Few, few the bird make her nest.
  • He is not valuable to breat that he eat.
  • Nothing some money, nothing of Swiss.
  • Burn the politeness.
  • To craunch the marmoset.

Timeless nuggets of wisdom there!  It reminds us of the Monte Python "Dirty Hungarian Phrasebook" sketch, and may in fact have been the inspiration for it.  You can read the whole hilarious story here.  Mark Twain, a contemporary, thought the phrasebook was a flawless comic gem.  Unintentional, but a gem nonetheless.

The mailbox arrived, Gerrit mounted the impressive-looking brass numbers on it, and then got to work installing it on the wall facing the street.  Not so fast, pilgrim.  That turned out to be way more difficult than he anticipated, but after some aching muscles, chiseled-out granite, and a scratched-up mailbox it was finally in place, slightly out of plumb.  As our Brit handyman was leaving Gerrit was just finishing up the job and he pointed out all the flaws to him.  The Brit replied, "You know what your problem is?  You're an engineer.  You want everything to be perfect.  No one will notice."  He has a point.

As we both worked on the mailbox, our neighbor Alexandrine just down the hill saw us and came over to introduce herself.  The former owners of Casa da Rocha had told each of us about the other, and we had a nice conversation.  Her English is quite good, certainly better than our Portuguese.  It was really nice to meet her, and to integrate another bit into the neighborhood.

Our quiet electric wood chipper arrived, delivered to the local neighborhood hub Café Martins.  After a confusing phone call from the proprietor Nuno in Portuguese, Gerrit drove down to pick it up.  It was quite heavy and large, and as he maneuvered it toward the door a stranger tapped him, nodded at the chipper, picked it up, and strode with it to the car.  The kindness we have experienced here is really heartwarming.  It doesn't hurt to be old and feeble, though.  It's kind of like having a "Help Me" sign on your back.

When we left our apartment in Gaia our next-door neighbors wished us farewell with a gift of an excellent bottle of Portuguese sparkling wine.  We just enjoyed that a couple nights ago, toasting them and our new home.

Today Pat noticed an itinerant shepherd grazing his small flock on our lower undeveloped land.  There is plenty of wild grass down there, and it was such a pleasant sight to see.

And we close this post with some homey photos of a steak and brussels sprouts dinner and mist in the valley.

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)

09 February 2025

Nesting & So Forth

OK, this blog is sounding less like an adventure and more like nesting.  We should rename it to "Pat and Gerrit's Portugal Nesting Adventure".  Here's a bulleted list of the major stuff we've been involved in the past week or so:  

  • Chores (chopping wood, cleaning)
  • Shopping (groceries, household goods)
  • Connect to Ponte de Lima English-speaking immigrant Facebook page
  • Finding beds to replace the plain ones which came with the house
  • Finding tradespeople & lining up jobs
  • Putting down non-skid appliques in the shower
  • Getting mailbox & address numbers
  • Getting to know the stores and streets
  • Setting up home insurance
  • Refining blog processing software
  • Getting Vodafone phone, TV, and internet connected (with help from a Portuguese speaker)
  • Shim the master bath cabinet level (a bigger job than it sounds like)
  • Feb 4 & 5 lovely warm days, doors open
  • At-home hairdresser
  • Sprucing up the master shower caulk
  • Getting materials to build a small shelf for the bedroom clock
  • Shopping for a branch shredder and a washing machine

Some of these are worth expanding on a little.

There is a town, Paços de Ferreira, about an hour south of here, which specializes in furniture manufacture.  Yes, the whole town.  There are about twenty furniture manufacturers there.  Some of them are fully custom, and some are more standard product oriented.  Pat has been looking for some furniture, especially lifting beds with storage underneath and a tall thin closet, and we found some very nice possibilities there.  We will do a field trip there.  It would be rewarding to support the local Portuguese craftsmen and economies.

It is fun getting to know the area in and around our village of Calheiros, and the shops nearby in Ponte de Lima.  Many of the roads leading to our place are very narrow, winding, and hair-raising in parts, with rock walls and drop-offs on both sides in places, but there are safer routes too.  The wild ones are kind of challenging though, and after a few dozen trips no paint has been scraped.  We are finding plenty of really nice shops within a few minutes too: grocery, hardware, appliances, high tech, and so forth, from small family-owned shops to sparkling big concerns.  We've only been looking in one part of town, too.

Pat found a British hairdresser on our new Ponte de Lima expats Facebook page who will come to our home, for only €15!  Amazing.

Getting the carpenter in here last week went very smoothly and he did great work.  The water heater tech has responded with an appointment next week, too.  The plumber has responded but we haven't set up an appointment.  We stopped by the metal fabricators again on Friday and got to talk to the proprietor.  We set up a visit here for the following day.

We screwed up our courage and tried the eel fillets from the freezer a couple nights ago, and they were great!  Gerrit just fried them in a bit of olive oil with some spices.  The flesh was firm and flavorful, very nice.  Just a bit bony, but we'll see if we can slice differently and avoid that next time.  We agreed that it would make excellent fish soup too.

Saturday we were busy with supervising the pruning of the yard and with a visit from the metal fabricator to assess the building and installing our handrails.  Both people speak English very well, so it was low-stress in that regard.  The metal fabricator, it turns out, helped to build some of our house during its initial construction ten years ago!  He is a fifth-generation metal worker, his father and grandfather built much of the old ironwork in town, and his family is firmly anchored in Ponte de Lima.  It was a pleasure to watch him work as he measured for the railings.  We are in good hands.

We were quite apprehensive about the stairs when we first moved in, but we have gotten a little more confident going slowly up and down them a few times a day.  We agree that handrails will make a big difference.  We think we will use the upcoming lift primarily for packages and big items, and use the stairs and handrails for ourselves.

And can you stand another sunset view from our balcony?  How about a sunrise?  OK, enough of that.

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)

04 February 2025

Moving In, Settling Down

On Tuesday January 28 we met with a local handyman, Andrew, a Brit who has been living in Portugal for 10 years.  He used to do odd jobs for the former owners here, and will come out on Saturday to move a washing machine and discuss some tree and bush pruning.

Then more shopping.  Andrew will need a hand truck, so we stopped at a couple small general hardware stores.  The people were so friendly, and the clerks we meet usually speak a few words of English.  At the second spot the clerk pulled out his phone and showed us pictures of his friend from New York, who lives just up the road now.  We had a sweet conversation, all three of us (Pat is getting bolder and more confident).  Unfortunately neither of the shops had our hand truck, so we left for a bigger bricolage (DIY) store and got a nice one.

Then off to Pingo Doce, a Portuguese grocery chain, for some lunch and grocery shopping.  We had chicken legs (pernas de frango) and broccoli (brócolos) with a half bottle of vinho verde for lunch.  Delicious!  Gerrit bought some safio (conger eel) fillets at the grocery, so we'll see how that goes.  Eel is quite the Portuguese delicacy.  The fillets are lurking in the freezer till Gerrit figures out what to do with them.

Back home we unloaded our haul and did some more moving in.

On Wednesday we built some of our new Ikea furniture and cleaned house a little.  We now have a nice computer table and one of the new cabinets is installed in the master bath.  We also rearranged the furniture in the front room (see below).  The computer (office) table is now off to the side of the couch, next to the back window with a gorgeous view to the other side from the valley as we sit at our keyboards.  It's very easy to get distracted.

Here are some homey photos of a pork roast dinner at the dining room table with the fire crackling in the background and one of the beautiful sunsets we enjoy here.

We had a visit from our lift estimator too.  She made the final measurements, which she was unable to do due to weather on her first visit, so she has everything she needs to start the manufacturing process.  The target for installation is eight weeks from today.

Pat found in the Portugal News that the electric utility REN is reporting that 73% of its energy in the first part of 2025 came from renewable sources, and EDP (the utility we are currently on) is reporting 95% from renewable sources.  That is pretty impressive!

On Thursday we did more cleanup and organization in the house.  We also made a visit to Café Martins for a reference from Nuno for a carpenter and a plumber, to take care of a couple things needed here, and a trip to the local metal fabricator to see about handrails for the stairways.  Gerrit also laboriously cut out felt pads for our eight kitchen chairs and glued them all on.  No more squawking when they drag across the floor!

On Friday we did some grocery shopping, and our housekeeper Inês came for the first time.  She spent four cheerful hours at it and did a beautiful job on the house, leaving everything sparkling clean including the fireplace.  We got to exchange a little Portuguese with her too.  In the evening we joined up with our expat group at the bar in Ponte de Lima once again, meeting some more new people from all over the world.

Saturday was a big day for home fixups.  We had set up visits with the carpenter and a plumber, and handyman Andrew was slated to do some work for us too.  

Dinis the carpenter showed up shortly after lunch with his daughter Marta, and he removed a huge oak bathroom door, took it outside, planed off a few millimeters, and reinstalled it perfectly all in about 20 minutes.  Professional tools and workmanship, a house call, and a total fee of only €15 ($15.50).  We commissioned him to build us some custom notched shelves for the hall closets after seeing his work.  Gerrit managed to have a little Portuguese conversation with him while he worked and afterwards, too.

Andrew and his daughter Jasmine appeared around 4:00 to discuss the pruning we need done and to move the washing machine from the garage to the utility room.

But the plumber didn't show up.  There was probably a misunderstanding, we never talked to him (only Nuno did), but we'll straighten it out on Monday.

Dinis, our housekeeper Inês, Nuno at Café Martins, and the other locals we meet are all neighbors, friends, and relations with one another.  They live just a short walk away from us, and we are pleased to get to know them.  We hope to prove to be good neighbors too.

Saturday night there was a big festival.  We heard marching drums very near, like in the neighboring village of Calheiros, folk songs playing, and there were fireworks going off regularly until about midnight.  We couldn't find anything to celebrate when we Googled the following day, so who knows?  The Portuguese just plain like to celebrate.

On Sunday we got some chores done around the house and then took a little day trip the the nearby city of Viana do Castelo, where the Lima river meets the Atlantic ocean, to visit the Leroy Merlin DIY store (kind of like a Home Depot).  We found many of the items on our list and did some research on some others, so it was quite successful.  We took the back roads home through lovely countryside as the sun set.

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)

27 January 2025

Storms, Power Boosts, and Shopping

Here is a bucolic scene of a flock of geese which suddenly appeared next to our recycling drop-off point one day on our way into Ponte de Lima.  

In Portugal, homes have a smart connection to the power grid via a sophisticated control box near the power inlet.  The power utility can remotely read power consumption, and can shut off power too.  There is a monthly charge based on your contract consumption ceiling.  Your consumption is how much power your home is using at a given time, and the ceiling acts like a circuit breaker for the whole house.  Last Friday, January 25, we had another power cut in the late afternoon.  This time we couldn't get the power back on even with repeated resets at the control box and turning off the water heater to reduce our consumption.  We dejectedly headed out for dinner in the pouring rain with a dark, cooling house.

We got together after dinner with our expat group at the regular Friday meeting.  Attendance was down a little due to the rain, but we had a good time meeting a few new people and making some more contacts.  There was plenty of commiseration on our blackout blues.  People have been through it, and we all agree that it's a little strange that the power company would cut off your power entirely if you exceed the maximum power specified in your contract.  Why can't they just charge you more if you go over?

We slept well in our unpowered house.  It doesn't get seriously cold in this temperate climate, even in January, and our bedclothes are cozy.  The next morning (Saturday) Gerrit ventured out to the control box, reset it, and the power stayed up this time.  He started adding up the power consumed by various appliances in the house: heating/AC units, stove and oven, pool skimmers, washing machine, water heater, water pump, refrigerator, and so forth, and realized we very likely were occasionally exceeding our contract maximum power of 6.9 kilowatts, which was what the power company rep said was average for a 2-person home.  This is not an average home though, electrically speaking.  Or any other way, frankly.

So we cut back consumption to the minimum and the power held up all day.  We also asked Nia, our fixer, to crank our contract up to 20 kilowatts, which is what we discovered the former owners had.  That should happen on Monday and will give us a little headroom and hopefully put these power cuts in the rear-view mirror.

At a break in the rain we snapped a photo of what we see looking out our front room doors/windows.  Just sitting here at the dining table we look up to see this!

Later in the afternoon Inês, our new housekeeper, came by with her sister and daughter.  We got to know each other, and the sister and daughter spoke English better than we did Portuguese.  Inês speaks very little English.  We got business taken care of and had a nice chat, in half-and-half Portuguese and English.  Inês's Portuguese sounds so nice, it's melodious and clear, and we're glad that the accent we've been learning matches hers quite well.  She will start next week, hopefully after we've cleared up some of the move-in clutter around here.

Here is a little observation we learned from Caroline and Peter, the Brits who sold us the house.  After Brexit, they could no longer stay in Portugal more than 90 days in any 180 day period.  That's the Schengen rule which the EU maintains for citizens of non-EU countries like England now is.  That made it impossible to spend the time here that they wanted and were used to, and was a key factor in their selling the house.  We have therefore directly benefited from Brexit and from their loss.  Strange thought.  They have been awfully gracious and helpful, considering all that.  They paid one last visit Saturday afternoon and we could tell they were kind of heartbroken.

On Sunday a big rain and wind storm moved in.  But when the going gets tough, the tough go shopping.  We made our way back to Porto in sporadically very heavy rain and gusty wind, at a cautious speed.  We had to pick up an item we'd ordered at El Corte Inglés back in Gaia, so we decided to combine shopping there with an expedition to Ikea in Matosinhos, just north of Porto.  We got some little bathroom cabinets and a computer table there, in addition to all the other essential items you find as you wander through the Ikea labyrinth.  We loaded up the car in rain and wind so powerful we could hardly stand, and crawled back into the car for the drive home looking like drowned rats.

But the real reason we went to El Corte Inglés was to make up for our not taking pictures of our lunch last time.  Here's a replay:

"Piglet sandwiches" for lunch at El Corte Inglés

Raspberry cream puff and espresso for dessert

We had a few odd power outages that night after we got home, due to the high winds.  The power winked out about five times for a few minutes and then back on, but held up other than that.  We've seen this power behavior in the US occasionally, but not quite as many in a row as on Sunday night.

We were still wary of using the heater/ACs here until we can get our power ceiling raised.  Gerrit tried twice to light a fire, but the winds were so strong they whistled down the chimney and filled the front room with smoke.  He ran to open a couple of our huge window/doors to blow it out, and within seconds rain came pelting into the room, blown horizontally about 3 meters in (10 feet).  What a mess!  We mopped most of that up, gave up on the fire, and curled up in the living room to watch the storm with some glasses of wine.  It was pretty dramatic!

The following day, Monday January 27, the storm was still raging but had died down considerably.  We had left most of our goodies from yesterday in the car and garage, being too whupped to bring them in the previous night, so we watched for a rain break.  We got one in the late morning and quickly lugged everything inside, just before the rain began again.  Now we had lots of things to do inside!  With the winds abating Gerrit could get a fire started, and we enjoyed that all day.

On one of her trips lugging stuff inside, Pat gathered about two dozen ripe oranges from one of our trees.  We've been enjoying oranges for breakfast, lunch, and bedtime snack, and now she can juice away and freeze the delicious nectar too.

In the afternoon we received confirmation that our power ceiling had been raised to 20.7 kilowatts, so we celebrated by turning the main room heater on and letting the fire die out.  We should see no more of those mystery cutouts while the rest of the neighborhood is fine, only cutouts for actual power failures.  The extra monthly cost is only €35 ($37) above the old contract, with the energy cost per kilowatt-hour the same.

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)

24 January 2025

Move-in Mania

 On Sunday January 20 we did a lot of shopping, at two hardware stores and then our favorite department store El Corte Inglés.  We have an ever-increasing list of things we'll need at the new home, even though it is fully furnished, but we checked off many of the items.  We had "piglet sandwiches" and wine for lunch at El Corte Inglés, followed by an espresso for Gerrit and a lemon creampuff to share.  (Photo?  What photo?  We are miserable bloggers.  Hungry too.)

Then we made another trip from the apartment to the new house with another carload of stuff.  It was raining pretty hard most of the time, but it was great to see the place again and to move some more of our things into it.  By the time we got back to the apartment we were pretty worn out.  After a dinner of pork "lizards" and green beans we limped off to bed.

Our original plan was to hire movers to do all the moving at once, but our friend Bernardo insisted that he and Carolina bring their car and that along with ours they could do the whole thing.  We then found that we had quite a bit more than two carloads, so this will take at least four carloads altogether.  Two we have already done, and hopefully the two on Tuesday will do it.

We did the final packing of the small stuff on Monday.  It was a big, all-day job, except for a quick visit to the clinic for a blood draw for Pat's regular check-up.  We now have everything boxed and piled in a corner of the room except for the last-minute stuff which we'll do tomorrow morning.

Tuesday the huge news was that we got our AIMA immigration meeting appointments!  Finally, after months of trying to contact them we got on the calendar.  The appointments aren't until May 2, but they are both at the same time in the same office.  (We have heard of couples being scheduled in vastly different parts of Portugal at the same time.)  The AIMA appointment is supposed to be two weeks after you arrive in Portugal, but it will have taken us almost a year.  Even with just an appointment now we can start applying for other certifications, and after the appointment we'll be official residents with most of the privileges of citizens.

We also finished the last minute packing, resulting in an alarmingly large pile to move.  We started planning for two trips.  Our friends arrived at 10:00 just as we finished up, and within a half hour they had both cars loaded with all the stuff and ready to go!  Only one trip required.  We buzzed up to the new home, they unloaded for us, and we were moved in before lunch.  They had to rush back to Porto to apply for a passport renewal so they could make their Morocco trip in a couple weeks, which was too bad.  We wanted to at least take them out for lunch.

We tried a new little restaurant about 5 minutes away for our lunch, called Pika Já.  The plate of the day sounded like "pork bananas".  We looked at each other, shrugged, and thought we'd give it a try.  Well, it had nothing to do with bananas.  The waitress had probably said "bifanas", or thinly sliced meat.  It came with a rich rice in sauce with beans and bacon, and a carafe of vinho verde.

That night we did more unpacking and puttering around the house.  Pat had a great idea for adding a wrought iron feature to our plain solid gray gate which she sketched out, to Gerrit's hearty approval.  Later there was much cursing by Gerrit at the godawful user interfaces of modern computerized appliances.  Who designs this junk?  We had a lovely fire in the evening though.  Casa da Rocha is beautifully energy efficient and warm when the sun shines, but on cold cloudy days it does get cold.  We're working out efficient ways of heating when we need to, with the fireplace and the excellent Mitsubishi heating/AC units.  (Excellent except for the user interface.)

The fireplace is a work of art.  There is a grating in the bottom which draws room air in like a bellows right into the middle of the fire when it gets going.  It burns hot and clean.  There are multiple heat exchanger inputs and outputs, so the maximum heat is extracted.  And there is a thermally-activated fan to really circulate the heated air.  Gerrit is bonding with his fireplace.

On Wednesday we had plans to go on a shopping spree, familiarizing ourselves with the local establishments, but we ended up staying home.  It was kind of a nice nesting rest after all that packing and moving.  As we worked, we watched the weather and the view from our glorious new perch as it slowly evolved over the day through rain, clearing, dramatic clouds, and fog.  Caroline and Peter, who sold the house to us, dropped by for a chat and to pick up something they'd forgotten.  Gerrit did a few little tasks like lubricating doors and inspecting garage items, and Pat did a lot of unpacking, puttering, and organizing.  Gerrit also got the electric and internet utility transfers underway.  He engaged the services of our friend Bernardo's sister Rita on the internet setup, and she negotiated us a 1/3 discount with increased services in addition to scheduling the hookup!  We'll be keeping her on the payroll.

That evening, after a cool rainy day we started a fire about 5 PM, and it warmed the whole house all evening long.  We sat after dinner in the darkened living room, enjoying the warm fire and the spectacular view of the village lights in the valley and the nighttime lights of Ponte de Lima.  Off to bed we went with happy hearts.

Until the power went out a little past midnight.  We lay there talking about how unprepared we were for this, and finally drifted back off since there was nothing we could do.  In Portugal you are billed based on a maximum rate of power delivery at a given time, and we wondered whether we had somehow exceeded that limit.

In the morning, Thursday, Gerrit called Nia, our fixer who had set up the new electricity contract, and she directed him to the main circuit box out on the street.  It was a lovely morning and Gerrit enjoyed a fresh little walk.  He pushed a button in the box and power came back on.  Hooray!  For a few minutes.  Boo!  He went back in and shut off the water heater, which he had been fiddling around with the previous day and may have screwed up, and he reset the control box again.  Now the power stayed up.

He and Nia figured out later that the power company had shut off power at the end of the previous contract, which was the day previous at midnight.  They don't provide continuous service with a new customer, they just shut it off and let the new customer reset.  Huh?  That most likely explains the midnight power failure, and the one shortly after that was probably caused by an improperly-configured water heater exceeding the power threshold.  Gerrit figured out how to set that properly, and power has been humming along ever since.

We also had a visit from a lift installer that day.  She carefully measured and evaluated our stairs, and instead of using the indoor stairway we found that we could install a platform lift like we wanted on a partially covered outdoor stairway.  Everything looked good, so we made a deposit.  The lift should be installed in eight weeks.  This will be a great help, not only to move heavy stuff up and down but for us too.  Next we need to get some handrails installed on all the stairs.

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)

19 January 2025

Starting the Move, Meeting the People

There was a little misunderstanding about the real estate lawyer's bill after the deed signing, so after a night of insufficient sleep Gerrit sent him a rather abrupt note.  Not rude, but a little blunt.  He responded very graciously, explaining the whole thing, signing off with "um abraço amigo" (a friendly hug), and Gerrit felt pretty foolish for violating the Portuguese cultural norm of respect and kindness in communication.  Normally people start their emails or messages with a friendly "hello, how are you?" or similar, but Gerrit had bypassed that and sent a blunt, businesslike note, which sent all the wrong signals.  After the lawyer's gracious reply Gerrit got back on track and sent him an equally gracious response.  Moral: treat people well and with respect.  We think that holds wherever you are.

On Wednesday January 15 we had some imaging appointments at our standard clinic in Porto.  The lobby was very crowded and the exams were an hour late, so all is not perfect in the health care system here.  Still excellent care though, and the ultrasounds were only €85 ($88) each after insurance.

On Thursday the sellers of our new home (Peter and Caroline) prematurely canceled the electric utility contract, even though Gerrit had already initiated a transfer.  They forgot that, and didn't realize that the power would be disconnected for our move with a canceled contract.  They scrambled and got the contract reinstated though, so all was well.  The actual billing transfer is likely to take a week or so.  Gerrit tried and failed to penetrate the utility's opaque phone tree, so he has enlisted our immigration consultant Nia Queiroz (the "Portugal Wizard") to set up the new contract.

On Friday we took a carload up to Casa da Rocha.  We unloaded and got everything hauled up the stairs without too much difficulty, unpacked, and then were met by Peter and Caroline who were staying with friends nearby.  They walked us around the place explaining all sorts of useful aspects, Caroline and Pat picked an armload of oranges, and soon we all had delightful big glasses of unsweetened pure homegrown orange juice.

While we were there, a delivery of flowers appeared!  Gerrit's family had sent flowers, a few days early, but by sheer luck we were there at the time of delivery.  This had been done by a single phone call to Ballard Blossoms in Seattle, who then took care of the whole international part of it.  Remarkable!  

The flower delivery was stymied at first by our closed gate and the fact that no house address appears at the entrance.  They came and left.  But what happened after that is pure Portugal: the flower delivery person knew to go to Café Martins (the local meeting point for everything in our neighborhood), and drop the flowers off.  Manuela there knew the address and then delivered the flowers.  It's the kind of neighborhood you want to be a part of.

There seemed to be a big festival going on in Ponte de Lima.  Big flash-bang fireworks were going off in the distance, and folk music carried up the valley.  Apparently the mayor of Ponte de Lima has been drumming up festivals of all kinds (including the Lamprey Festival, the Our Lady of the Good Death Festival, and the Our Lord of Socorro festival (socorro means "help me"), among many others), so we'll be seeing plenty of this.  Life at Casa da Rocha will not always be serene, but we will go with the flow and join in the fun.

Peter and Caroline then led us to a regular Friday get-together of English-speaking expats at a bar near Ponte de Lima, where we were introduced to the gang.  Everyone was very welcoming and friendly, and the neighbors there congratulated us on our beautiful new home.  We got into some nice discussions with some very interesting people.  We are running into a very cosmopolitan group of people in Portugal who have lived and traveled all over the world.  We exchanged names and WhatsApp contacts with a number of them, and will return to the Friday get-togethers once we settle.

On the way home (the new one that is) we stopped at a local pizza joint for some excellent pizza, a big salad, and glasses of wine.  We had learned earlier from Caroline that in the Ponte de Lima area (capitol of the vinho verde region) if you order "red wine" you get vinho verde tinto, a rather sour version of vinho verde which includes grape skins in the mash to give it a reddish tint.  If you want good old red wine around here you must order "vinho tinto maduro", or "mature red wine".  It's a minefield out there.

Arriving home at Casa da Rocha we puttered around a little exploring light switches and their effect, then bedded down.  The distant sound of festivities continued until about midnight we think, but it wasn't disturbing and we slept like babies, on our first sleepover.

In the morning we had more fresh orange juice along with some muesli we had brought, but alas no coffee or tea.  We did our Portuguese lessons, put empty suitcases back in the car, and headed back toward the apartment.  On the way we stopped at the legendary Café Martins which Peter and Caroline had raved about, to grab some coffee and tea.  As we entered, we bumped into Peter and Caroline just leaving!  They did a U-turn, joined us for coffee, and introduced us to Nuno and Manuela, the proprietors of this way-more-than-a-café.

Café Martins on the outside

A tiny part of Café Martins on the inside

Café Martins is a nice little café and bar, to be sure, but it is also the most incredible hardware, grocery, and notions store you'll ever see.  Anyone been to McLendon Hardware in the Seattle area?  It's like a combination of that and Fred Meyer, all jammed into a little place right down the street from us.  There is barely room to move between the racks of stuff.  Deep in the basement of the hardware section are hundreds of bins of screws, nuts, bolts, washers, etc., and you can buy just one screw if you need it.  At 2 AM if you need to.  It's incredible.  We bought a drill, bits, and a tape measure there, just to get started.  Nuno and Manuela are warm and friendly, and speak almost no English.  Excellent!  We stammered and squeezed out little sentences (necessity being the mother of inventing them).  They will be great language learning helpers.

As we left we heard English being spoken though: a British woman came up and introduced herself as our neighbor.  Delightful and friendly, and another stitch between us and the new neighborhood.

Nicely caffeinated and excited, we headed back to our apartment for more packing and moving prep.  It has been beautiful and clear for days, but it is due to start raining tomorrow for about a week.

(As usual, you can click on any photo to enlarge it, scroll through them all, and click outside a photo when you're done.  Also, you can click on the bold underlined phrases to play the audio.)